ADOBO: A History of the Philippines National Dish.
By Cynthia De Castro & Rene Villaroman/AJPress
Adobo
Philippines National Dish.
Adobo, a dish characterized by its tangy, savory broth and marinade of vinegar, soy, pepper, and spices, boasts a rich and multifaceted history that spans continents and cultures. While its name derives from the Spanish verb adobar, meaning “to marinate,” the dish’s origins and evolution reflect a convergence of indigenous practices, colonial influences, and regional adaptations. Far from a singular recipe, adobo embodies a cooking method that has been embraced and transformed by diverse societies, including those in the Philippines, Spain, Latin America, and beyond, with variations featuring chicken, pork, beef, and vegetables.
The roots of adobo-style cooking predate written history, emerging independently in warm climates where preserving food was a necessity. In the Philippines, long before Spanish colonization in the 16th century, indigenous peoples used vinegar—derived from coconut, cane, or palm—and salt to preserve meat and seafood in the tropical heat. This technique, akin to kinilaw (raw fish cured in vinegar), laid the groundwork for what would become Filipino adobo. When Chinese traders arrived around the 9th century, they introduced soy sauce, which gradually replaced salt in many recipes, adding depth and umami. By the time Spanish colonizers encountered this dish in 1521, they dubbed it “adobo” due to its superficial resemblance to their own marinated dishes, though its ingredients—vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns—were distinctly Southeast Asian. Today, Filipino adobo, often made with chicken or pork, is considered an unofficial national dish, with regional variants like adobong puti (sans soy sauce) or adobo sa gata (with coconut milk) showcasing its adaptability.
In Spain, adobo emerged from a different tradition, rooted in Iberian preservation methods. The Spanish version, documented as early as the medieval period, typically involved marinating pork or game in a mixture of vinegar (often sherry or wine), paprika, oregano, and garlic. This technique, refined during the Reconquista and carried by explorers, was less about tropical preservation and more about enhancing flavor and extending shelf life during long voyages. When Spain colonized the Americas, adobo crossed the Atlantic, evolving in regions like Mexico and Peru. Mexican adobo, particularly from Puebla, became a fiery marinade of dried chilies (ancho, guajillo), vinegar, and spices, often used for beef or pork, reflecting the integration of indigenous Mesoamerican ingredients like chilies with Spanish vinegar-based traditions. In Peru, Arequipan adobo features pork cooked in a clay pot with chicha (fermented corn beverage) and spices, blending Incan and Spanish culinary legacies.